Saturday, 5 September 2015

Aug 10: Going to the arctic

For our second day in southern K-Country, the target was Plateau Mountain. This is a very special and somewhat weird place.

For starters, it's Kananaskis Country's only Ecological reserve. It's designated that way to protect the weird stuff on its summit. The summit isn't a peak, but 14 square kilometres of basically flat plateau. The top is a nunantuk, meaning it was above the ice sheets during the last period of glaciation. It has ice caves. It's a treeless, windswept place with permafrost, and exceptionally reminiscent of Canada's high arctic.

Access is up a partially closed road leading to old and new gas wells. The first gas field up there, which was discovered by Husky in the 1950's, had 4 wells, all of which are long abandoned and almost impossible to detect they were ever there. In the 1990's along came Direct Energy who acquired the gas rights in the area and drilled 2 new wells. Both of these are still there but currently capped. For those who care, the gas produced was processed way down in the Crowsnest Pass at Coleman at a plant specifically built for the field, but since Devon closed the plant in 2010, the wells no longer can produce.

So "active" roads still exist to get to the top, and other older roads exist up on top leading to the farthest northern reaches of the plateau, which is about 8 km long and up to 2 km wide. Reaching the top is about 9 km up the road from Hwy 940, but you can drive the first 4 km. This access road has been closed for the last 2 years due to flood damage; we weren't even sure it was open before we headed down, but confirmed that it was on arrival.

Best part: biking the roads is OK. However, don't believe the bike up is easy. Maybe if you're a better biker than us, or have better bikes. We ended pushing our bikes up about 90% of the way, taking about an hour and a quarter to climb the 250 m to the top. The road heads up via two big switchbacks...
Looking southwest from the first switchback at the road section you can drive 
The steeds. Looking west. 
Looking southeast to the southern section of the mountain 
From the first switchback, looking up. Road continues up the plateau at right centre
Looking north at the first switchback 
Mt. Burke from the 2nd switchback 
...then winds up the mountain.
The road continues up from the 2nd switchback 
Northwest view from the 2nd switchback 
The northern reaches of the plateau 
Peaks of the Divide peek over the ridge to the west
The roads lead directly to the wells (surprise).
The first well
We ran into an exceptionally friendly herd of bighorn sheep up here. They liked our bikes.
One coming to visit 
Others block the road 
I suspect they like the dust 
Far too friendly
Lots of cool stuff up here; it starts with pattered ground. Water percolates up from the ground, and the freeze/thaw cycles force large stones to the surface. Lateral forces then turn the rocks into geometric shapes.
Flat fields of rocks in circles and hexagons 
Like a field full of stop signs
There used to be paths up here that led to things like communications towers and other routes up and down the mountain. Since no one has been up here for 2 years, everything is so overgrown you can't find much evidence of the these things. We even had trouble finding the start to the road leading north up the plateau, given that there isn't a reason to drive on it anymore (though unlike the abandoned well pads, the road hasn't been reclaimed).
The road start. It's more obvious farther north
The plateau has a narrow waist, a perfect lunch spot.
Hailstone Butte to the east. There's a well down in the valley
A hawk was ridge soaring the canyon while we had lunch. Very fun but hard to photograph.

We continued the easy ride north, not realizing why the ride was so easy (see below). Twenty minutes of riding took us to the most northerly (now missing) well site and more stellar views.
Mt Burke is due north 
Northwest to the Divide and Rasberry Ridge 
Southeast to Sentinel Peak, which peeks over the plateau
The main reason to come this far north was to go see the ice cave.
The monument 
Panel 1 
Panel 2
We had no intention of going inside. Our sole goal was to get a photo of the gated entrance. The route in Gillean's Volume 5 of the 4th Edition of the Kananaskis Country Trails Guide was to head northeast to the knoll in the photo below, then work you way down ~85m the face on the right. The cave entrance is on an exposed rock wall.
The cave entrance is somewhere down the face on the right 
Looking back from the lowest point; bikes on the grassy flat upper right
We dropped the 50 m from where the bikes are parked to the low point, as instructed, then headed down. We found none of the things we were looking for to help establish where to go, in great part I believe because we were the first people to have been to this spot in 2 years. Two years of rain and snow washed away all signs of access. For instance, we were looking for a white rock with a spruce tree as the mark to start down. Is this it?
All the rocks up here are white, and the spruce trees are all over
Could be. Maybe not. We dropped down the face anyway, not terribly easy going on a steep mostly unstable scree slope.
About 40 m downslope
60 m down (on the way up)
It was a convex slope that got steeper the farther we went down. We were looking for a large cliff/rockband with a second rockband not far below it. We found one but none below it. We descended 90 m, poked around a bit, and gave up. If anyone gets to the entrance, some cairns to mark the route would be nice. Alternately, a photo taken from the plateau opposite side of the gully with a good telephoto lens would help with route planning.

Back up on the plateau and disappointed we didn't find the entrance, we walked northeast to the top of the outlier.
Mt. Burke looms to the north
Sentinel Peak to the southeast
It was now 2:45 pm so we figured we needed to start heading back. At that point, we were still 10 km from the car. We walked back uphill to our bikes, and discovered why we were so fast getting to the north wellsite: from the bikes, it was 6 km and 200 m uphill to the peak of the plateau. Yes, by riding to the north and hiking down to the area of the cave, we had effectively dropped to the same elevation as the car, meaning we had to climb the mountain a second time, as my GPS shows me now in a fit of 20:20 hindsight:
Crap
So we took another hour and a quarter to push the bikes another 5 km up another 200 m hill, exactly as we had to to start our day -- only this time, we were heading into a 40 km/hr wind (Karen's bike almost got blown over on several occasions while she was pushing it). Since the slopes on the graph of the two climbs are different, it is safe to assume our afternoon climb was slower.

The bright side? From the top, we made it to the car in 17 minutes, including walking past two rough sections. Of the 26 km we travelled, we figure we rode a little less than half of it, and walked the rest.

Once back at the car, we headed back to the campground. Once there, we drove around to check the place out. We were now one of 5 occupied sites in the 105 site campground. The place had been taken over by the deer.
Mom 
Baby
We were hot and sweaty and in need of a shower. I brought along a $7 solar shower (basically a black plastic bag with a nozzle you leave out in the sun to get hot), and so I built a little shower stall out of tarps so we could hang the thing from a tree to shower.
Rigging the tarp
Ready to go 
The inside
I swear they were so few people around that we could have showered naked without the tarp and no one would have noticed. No matter. The shower felt excellent.

Tomorrow: Can we get up Mt. Burke? Stay tuned.

Thursday, 3 September 2015

Aug 9 Hailstone Butte, bears, and camping in south K-Country

Another catch-up post...

I have never spent a lot of time in the southern section of K-Country (one hike up Raspberry Ridge way back in September 1995 is about it). Getting down there and exploring has been high on my list of things to do since retiring. Two years ago, I came up with the plan to go camp down there for a few days to allow more hiking time. Last year was the year for it, then I broke my leg. So darn it, I was going this year.

We studied both our calendars and the weather, looking for a 4-day, rain free, blue sky window. We had one option in July, and two in August. The July week we cleared our calendars for got washed out with rain. But August 9, we opted to go for it. It was almost perfect. Almost.

Our first day, we drove south down the paved Highway 40 to the unpaved 940, then south to the southeast corner of K-Country at Highway 532. It took us about 2½ hours (and a whole lot of dust) to get down there from home, far faster than Google predicted. Because we knew we wouldn't get to a trailhead until almost noon, then hike, then get to a campsite and set up, we wanted something short. As I'm currently writing a series of articles on Fire Lookouts for the Friends of Kananaskis newsletter, I picked hiking up to Hailstone Butte lookout, a short 4 km loop with only 320 m of height gain.

The trail starts on Hwy 532 at a place called The Hump, a pass into the mountains. Heck, the views from there was worth the drive down.

Looking east. Note the scars on the land, lower right
In the photo above, the land left of the road on the left is K-Country. The land on the right is the Willow Creek OHV area. While we sat on the knoll having lunch, off-road motorcycles were blasting around up and down the hills. Ah well. Everyone needs a playground.

The hike climbs the butte in the photo below. The small structure visible at the top is a radio repeater station, not the fire lookout.
Looking west
The hike up was pleasant and not that steep.
Part way up. Lookout still out of sight 

Looking south. Great lenticular clouds 
The south view from higher up 
Looking north
So when you get to the point in the last 2 photos above, you have two route choices. You can head straight up and scramble through a break in the rock cliff at the top. Or you can take one of these two paths...
Upper or Lower
...across a 45° shale scree slope. Not being a fan of scrambling that much, we opted to cross the scree. Be aware that this is tough, probably more dangerous than the scramble. The trail parts that are visible in the photo and in person are fairly stable, but there are a few washouts that are really quite dangerous to cross. They include 3' drops into the unstable washouts, which are 15' wide and filled with fine shale that is ready to tumble down 1,000' if you slide. Getting in and out of these washouts is as hard as getting through them. Take poles.

We made it across OK, and once across, you can either take a multiple kilometer walk across a meadow to the old access road, or scramble (sigh) up through a rock band. We opted to scramble for it looked easy, and it basically was. The only obvious break in the rocks had a sort of a trail through it. There was even beer cans stuffed under rocks at obvious sitting/pausing spots.

Once at the top, you're right at the lookout.
Looking south 
Looking north 
The lookout building 
The sign
We were lucky. The lookout was not busy, and came out to say hi and get us to sign his guestbook. Normally this is not the case, as the last few lines on the sign can attest.

What do you do when you're a lookout and it's quiet? Well, build rock mosaics and paint the place in wild patterns.
I need this guy to do my yard 
But not to paint my house
It's a fire lookout, which means the views are spectacular. To the west, the flat top of Plateau Mountain (and the logging taking place on its flanks) dominates.
Looking southwest. Large cutblocks dominate 
Due west
Due west. Peaks of the Continental Divide peek over
Towards the north, the skyline is dominated by Mt. Burke, site of the old Cameron fire lookout, and Sentinel Peak.
Mt. Burke. North reaches of Plateau on the left
Burke on the left, Sentinel on the right
You can see the towers of downtown Calgary, 98 km distant. You can look south to the route you took up, or to the end of the butte (which you can easily walk down to, though we did not).
The car's down on that road 
The top of the butte
It's normally very windy there; it was "only" blowing 50 km/hr according to the lookout. Those lenticular clouds made me drool; as a former glider pilot, they're all about high altitude mountain wave flying, and indicate the winds are blowing 100 km/hr at altitude. Sigh. That was a previous life.

We opted to head down via the normal scramble route up. Downclimbing is always more challenging than upclimbing, and I did struggle even though the face is only 3 m tall. From the bottom, I readily found an easier route for Karen to get down than the one I used. It's obvious many people have poked around looking for routes; if you do come up the scramble way (named the "Roper Route", after the lookout's dog, who would guide people up and down it), try to remember how you did it if you're heading back down that way.
Me hunting around the base of the cliff band 
The scramble goes up there 
The route close up. It's two 3 m rock bands.
We headed down to the car and rather than head straight to the campground, we decided to check out the access for our planned hike to Plateau Mountain the next day. We were getting conflicting reports as to whether the road was open, and were reluctantly committed to biking it's 4 km length (and 200 m height gain) if it was not. We were pleasantly surprised to find the road open. We drove up it, and ran into some hikers who had been up on Plateau. They reported all was well. It made us excited for tomorrow.

We turned to drive to the campground. I came around the first bend into a meadow (not 300 m from the hikers) and saw a big, light brown, furry face look at me. Sure enough, I had seen a grizzly. We pulled over, and sitting on the side of the meadow was indeed a bear. Just not the one I had seen.
Not light brown 
Checking us out
A moment later, mom appeared.
THAT'S who I saw. Gotta be 500 lbs
She and her kid wandered into the woods. Cool.

We headed to the Cataract Creek campground. We could have made reservations at the Etherington Creek campground a few kilometres farther north, but decided to chance the first come, first served Cataract as it was a bit better located. We needn't have worried. Cataract has 102 sites. At 4 PM on a sunny Sunday afternoon in August, less than a dozen were occupied. We found an empty grouping we liked near bathrooms and water, decided to take one -- then a truck pulled into it. Turns out they were just hikers going out for a walk, so happily moved to another site when we asked.
Yes, I'm a tenter 
We're minimalists 
Keep it simple
This was our view.
Mountains 
Cool, but... 
Cooler. In camera HDR
That mountain on the right? Mt. Burke, the mountain we saw from Hailstone, and the one with the old fire lookout on it. Let's zoom in, shall we?
That's Burke 
And that's the Cameron Lookout
We don't so campfires. So after dinner we sat there, watched the deer come into feed...
Blurry but you get the point
 ...watched the sunset change the colours on Mt. Burke...
Orange now
...and watched it go dark.
HDR at 9:45 PM
Plan for August 10: Bike up Plateau Mountain. Visit an ice cave. Stay tuned, and I'll get it posted as soon as I can.