More sand, more dunes

Even though I am now home, there's still stories to be told about our Netherlands trip.

In looking for fun parts of the Netherlands to explore this trip, I was interested in the National Parks, in part because they tend to protect cool places, and in part, to compare them to our Provincial and National parks. One key difference I found was that whereas we generally create parks to protect as yet unimpacted parts of the country, the Netherlands was late to that party. This is what happens when you've been inhabited since medieval times. So the parks in the Netherlands are smaller and generally show evidence of substantial human use prior to becoming protected spaces.

An example of this was the Nationaal Park De Loonse en Dunense Duinen (which translates to "The De Loonse and Dunense Dunes"). I'm going to put together an entire post on how to access this park, because it took me a lot of time to figure that out, so I won't go into it here. In any case, the park basically protects a sand dune complex that is one of the biggest north of the Sahara.

The park from Google Maps

For us, getting there was a typical Dutch adventure. We planned our route on 9292.nl: 8:45 train past Utrecht to 's Hertogenbosch, connect to a train to Tilburg, connect to a bus to Loon op Zand, walk 600 m to a place to rent bikes. Arrival was to be 10:30 AM. But these things don't always work out.

We got to the station and the train we planned to take wasn't going past Utrecht with no explanation as to why. We asked at the NS Rail Info Office, and all they did was pull up 9292 and suggest a different route. We gave up trying to get NS help and just hopped the 9:05 train to 's Hertogenbosch (which we started calling "Certo" for short. Den Bosch would have worked, too, apparently). Thus we missed the initial connect to Tillburg, missing the bus we needed to catch.

Then our train into Certo was late, so we even missed the second connection to Tilburg (it left the station just as we pulled in). By the time we finally made it to Tilburg, the only bus we could take dropped us on the side of a major motorway near (not in) Loon op Zand, 2.5 km from our bike rental place. The bus was also STUFFED past capacity with school kids, and we had trouble even getting off the bus (no one got off the bus to make space for us to get off; we just had to forcibly squeeze our way through the mass. So un-Dutch like). We finally arrived at 11:45 AM. By the way: Loon op Zand has a pretty church.

Nice church on a nice day

The bike rental place I found turned out not to be a bike rental place but a hotel that happened to rent bikes. Armed with trusty steeds...

Nice steeds

...we rode all of 10 minutes and stopped for lunch on the edge of the dunes with this view:

That's a lot of sand

It was cool, but I think it would have been more impressive had we not seen the big dunes at Hoge Veluwe two days earlier. Still, these were much bigger.

While having lunch, we noticed there was a wedding going on in the distance.

Maybe just the pictures being taken

So, having visited dunes before in Namibia, in the USA and in Australia, the biggest challenge is that dunes are not conducive to wandering in. Since dunes move, trails are impractical, and signage is darned near impossible.

I bet those posts are at least 1 m tall

Here is no different. The bike paths encircle the edge of the dune fields. The walking paths cut slightly into the dunes, but only slightly. While you're welcome to just head off into the sand, it's a) hot, b) dry, c) dusty and d) filled with blowing sand that gets into every orifice in your body.

Still, we had to explore, so for an hour, we followed one of the walking paths, past an oasis in the middle of the sand...

Seriously: where are the zebras, rhinos and giraffes? 

Shades of the Namib desert

...past footprints of people and horses heading nowhere...

A whole lotta nothing out there

That way, too.

...past wind ripples in the sand...

You can see these in sandstone rocks

...past tracks of critters who live in this harsh environment...

Looks like kangaroo rat, but they may not have them here 

Fox for sure

...and past trees that lost the fight with the sand.

The Loch Ness Monster?

On the edges of the dunes, we actually saw wildlife.

A roe deer

My wildlife is shy. The two deer we saw bolted at 50 km/hr the second they saw us, and we were standing still.

There was an interesting research project going on along the path: crowd sourced time lapse photography of how the dunes are losing to the vegetation.

Maak 'n foto!

So the idea (as I translate it) is that they want you to take a picture that matches the view in their picture, and send it to them. From this, they can string together a timelapse of how the vegetation is taking over the dunes. This was mine:

The bikes were an added extra

After our 3 km walk, we rode around and through the park, which was about 21 km. We passed a pretty little lake with a nice sandy beach that was popular with dogs...

A nice swimming hole

...and past a number of spots where you could get to the dune field's edges.

More sand 

Someone trying to emulate Deadvlei in the Namib desert 

More sand 

At the far west end looking back east

It just goes on

Generally, though, the bike path skirted the park edge, going in and out, and ran along the edges of the farm fields that line the edges of the park.

Marshmallows not yet cut up?

We passed a small amusement park, pretty thatched buildings of questionable build quality...

One building from two halves, I suspect

...past pretty little (crowded) cafés set up for the bike crowd and filled with bike riders having an afternoon beer.

We got back to our bike rental place at 3:00 pm, plenty of time for a beer in the hotel's bar before our bus home...

A lovely way to end the day

...and to watch the kids taking riding lessons in the barn attached to the hotel.

The view from inside the bar

I checked 9292 to confirm our planned pathway home. It told us to leave the hotel at 3:40 pm to walk to the bus stop to catch a 3:55 pm bus (that would get us to Tilburg, then Certo, then back to Amsterdam at 5:30 pm), but it did warn that the bus stop had moved because of an event in town. We left at 3:35 pm, walked back through the town...

Busy place

...past the road being set up for the carnival, and got to the bus stop at 3:50 pm, where two others were waiting for the same bus. At 3:55 pm, a lady stopped by the bus shelter and told us all (more precisely, told the other two, in Dutch), that there was no bus running at all because of the carnival. We checked 9292; it said it was. But (just like Hoge Veluwe) one of the lovely young ladies waiting for the bus with us translated, and said we could still catch a bus from the stop we were dropped off at this morning -- which was 1.5 km down the road and across the motorway. I checked the timetable on 9292, and it said we had 20 minutes to get there. So we started off walking with her -- she was trying to catch the same bus -- but she was wearing high heels and couldn't keep up the brisk pace that was needed. She told us to go ahead.

We scooted along, and got to the stop 3 min before the bus appeared. Unfortunately  the lady didn't make it, but she said she was not in a rush. We got into Tilburg too late to catch the train to Certo, so we grabbed the next train heading to Breda instead, where we caught an Amsterdam-bound train. We got in at 6:05 PM.

The De Loonse en Dunense Duinen parks was interesting and I was glad we went -- but we would have enjoyed it WAY more had we arrived when we wanted to and been able to get home as per plan. Instead, we got to spend less than 3 hrs in the park, while spending 3 hrs to get there and 2.5 hrs to get home. Not a great time investment.

Hidden Dutch treasures

I bet if I asked you to list all the National Parks in the Netherlands, you probably couldn't name one. We visited two, both by bike, and one contained the largest private collection of Van Gogh works in the world.

The first park we visited is northwest of Arnhem and called the Hoge Veluwe. It's 55 square kilometres of rolling forests, sand dunes and bike paths. It got its start as a private estate primarily for hunting, owned by two very rich people, Anton Kröller and his wife, Helene Kröller-Müller. She was an art collector with virtually unlimited funds. She liked painters like Mondrian, Seurat, Monet, Pissaro, Picasso, and sculpturists like Moore, Rodin & others. In the early 1930's, they donated their land and art to the Government under the condition that it stayed a park and they built a museum for the art. So it's a privately owned national park (take that, Banff). 

We, as usual, took public transit to get there: a train to Arnhem, and a bus from there to Otterlo in the northwest corner of the park. Walking to the park from the bus stop, we happened upon this memorial.

Small but pretty

It had this in it.

I recognize that

And this explanation.

History I never knew

Once inside the park (one of only 2 national parks in the Netherlands that charges an entry fee -- again, take that, Banff), there are 1,800 free bikes to borrow (one more time: take that, Banff). The bikes are parked at major locations in the park, and you simply ride it from where you picked it up to wherever you want to go and drop it off. Very cool.

Pick a bike, any bike. And every one has a child seat

Only about 3 km from the Otterlo park entrance is the Kröller-Müller museum and 25 ha sculpture garden.

The entranceway 

Sculptures on the entrance path

The museum itself is a treat, and I won't bore you with all 86 pictures we took inside. But some highlights:

The first ever series of Mondrian's graphic style he would become famous for 

Classic Mondrian 

Picasso 

More typical Picasso 

VG Self Portrait

Classic mid-madness Van Gogh 

The star's location in the skies is accurate

Pre-madness. Very delicately done 

Sunflowers 

Claude Monet

It was a beautiful museum, and outside is this massive sculpture garden (which is a great place for a picnic). There was some dynamic sculpture (I like it when they move), but most of the sculptors I didn't recognize, other than Henry Moore (he did the big thing in front of Toronto's City Hall), Rodin...

Kinda thinking...

...Barbara Hepworth (who has her own pavilion)...

All Hepworths

...and a bunch of other cool and/or weird things.

This amphitheatre is a piece of art 

The IceTower 

Looking up inside the tower 

Wall of twisted steel 

You used to be able to clamber on this thing, but... 

...it's falling apart so under repair 

Yes, that's a house trailer that's... "decorated" 

Heads with... things on them

After a few hours of exploring the museum, we grabbed a new set of bikes and headed directly through the park towards the southern exit, about 12 km away (A mistake. There's a visitor's centre near the museum we missed, and it has a bunch of info on the biology and geology of the park that I wished I would have seen). The park makes for beautiful riding. Through the park, there are several blind areas where you can stop and watch for wildlife (deer, fox, mouflon sheep and birds. We saw nothing but birds).

The post 

The view

Suddenly, you ride out of the forest and into a sand dune complex.

Sandwalk 

On the hill 

The view from the hill. Two bikes on the left for scale

Sand dunes were... unexpected, and very cool.

We stopped at another blind, where I wandered around unsuccessfully trying to track a bird making an interesting noise.

Grasses and oak trees 

Pine trees; the sheep like this area, based on tracks and scat 

Me, not finding birds

It took us about 1 hr 20 min to ride through the park, including stops. We had the schedule for busses to catch to get to the Arnhem train station, and knew they ran every half hour, so were targeting exit times. We got to the park exit with 10 minutes to go before the bus, but with a 6 minute walk to get to the stop. In a trot, we made the stop with 5 minutes to go before the bus was to arrive. And we waited.

But the bus never came.

There's an app here everyone uses called 9292 that basically tells you how to get from any Point A in the country to any Point B using all forms of transit (train, tram, bus, etc), in English or Dutch. I planned our outbound and return journeys on it yesterday. I pulled it up. Suddenly, it was saying to me the bus we wanted to take was "unavailable", but offered me no alternatives. It wouldn't even tell me where to walk to get to another bus (it normally does that). It was saying something in Dutch that it didn't translate and I didn't understand nor could figure out.  We were still 6 km -- a 2 hr walk -- from the Arnhem train station. Now what?

Up walks this lovely young Dutch lady. We ask her to translate the 9292 message. It says: that particular bus line is on strike today. There will be no bus in 30 minutes, or at all. She isn't really a local -- she's in this particular town (Schaarsbergen) doing business, and now heading home to Rotterdam -- but she knows there is no other bus option. We are officially stranded.

We sorta slide into panic mode (how the heck do we get to Arnhem? There sure are no taxis out here), when she offers us a ride to the station. We gratefully accept. Along the way, we find Marion is eager to practice her English (which is better than mine), and really wants to visit Canada. And it just so happens we speak English and live in Canada. It only takes about 8 minutes to get to the station, but we make sure to give her our contact info, and invite her to come visit us in our version of paradise in the mountains.

Karen and I hope she takes us up on it, in part because Marion is as much a Dutch treasure as the park and museum.